It’s early morning and already very hot. Today I want to escape the crazy city and look for a quiet place at the beach. Many people recommended me Porto de Galinhas. So this will be my destination for the day. I asked the guy at the reception at the hostel. He tells me to take bus number 195 or a bus to the airport and change there. I buy some bananas and water at the supermarket for the trip.
I finally know that there is one street for each direction and know where to take the bus. After 10 busses passed by, I finally see a bus with destination airport (the guy from the hostel did not tell me about this bus number).
I am waiting in the shadow at the airport as many other people with the same destination. I can get in but I have to stand short after the entrance as the bus is fully packed. I try to talk to my neighbours: 3 young girls, one only replies ‘Si’ in a rude way if they are going to Porto de Galinhas. She doesn’t want to talk any more with me. Very antipathical Argentinians…
I could move a bit forward in the bus and come close to Angélica, a nice woman from Recife.
We talk about my trip in Brazil and soon about gastronomy : she says I should try a delicious seafood : ‘sururu’ (I thought it was a yellow fish but it’s a mollusque with yellow meat : mussels), and also to try in João Pessoa at Cabo Branco the ‘sorvete de caipirinha’, but also the local refrigerante cajuina in Ceará. As we have travelled a bit more than a hour Angélica tells me that we are nearby one of the nicest beaches of the area. As I tell her maybe it would be better for me to get off here. She tells me that the bus stop is far away from the beach and it’s better to go by car.
I arrive at the final destination. It’s hot, very hot. I just have to follow the crowd to head to the beach. On the way, there are many small shops, it just looks alike every touristic place and the seaside. And also a lot of chicks (the Galinhas):
A phone cell :
This last one is dedicated to my friend Fabio, who writes a blog in French about actuality and culture in Brazilian Nordeste ‘Le haut-parleur de Natal, Brésil’ http://fabsantana.mondoblog.org/
I soon arrive at the beach. It’s swarming with people. We can most of the people into the water and many small boats.
I decide to go far away from the crowd and walk quite a lot. I finally find a small place with some shadow but it’s already taken. No I have to stand right in the sun. I took off my clothes and put sunscreen on. I realise that I forgot my bath suit at the hostel. Never mind, I’ll go just in underwear. I don’t stay very long in the water because it’s not a real good place for bathing. The waves are not very nice. I go back to my towel and dry. After a few minutes, I put my T-shirt on as I am afraid to get another sunburn. I eat chips and bananas, drink guaraná and water and leave the place before I burn alive.
I get back to town and I discover an ice cream shop in a side street on the left. I get one ice cream
And a fresh fruit salad
The owner from the shop Maurizio is Italian from Napolitano and has been living for a few years in Brazil. I try to speak some Italian with him but every now and then only Portuguese words come to my mind. Alceu Valença is everywhere
In front there is a diving course (mergulho, Angélica already told me about this and the natural aquarium of Porto de Galinhas but that’s only nowthat I get it). And of course, there are also Galinhas Mergulhadas
There are even Galinhas on the walls :
Or in the different shops.
There are even Galinhas Bonecos
I am a bit surprised when I discover the chicken.
And even more when I see frogs
It’s still quite early but I decide to go back now so that the bus will not be packed. I take my seat and enjoy the air conditioning. I fell asleep. As I wake up, a young girl is sitting next to me. She’ll visit her boyfriend in Olinda and is so focussed that she doesn’t want to talk much to me. The bus leaves just nearby my hostel and I go up to have a shower. I relax in the sofas and write to Jesus, it’s a Spanish traveller who knows João, who gave me his contact. Tonight, Titãs will be playing
Jesus gave me an appointment close to Marco Zero at the Rock and Ribs restaurant.
We are in good company with the music of Raimundos
I feel so hungry that even if I don’t like the menu I order a hamburger and fries. It’s nothing exceptional but at least I feel better after eating.
We head off to the main stage at Marco Zero
And move on through the packed streets of Recife Antigo. We find very nice samba music from « Os microbios ». The people sing along the samba classics in a perfect harmony.
There, we meet Fabiola from Recife (who spent 3 years in Dublin) and her carioca friend Vivienne. I feel really tired because of the heat and it’s time for me to go back to my hostel.
I lay down on my bed as a young girl enters the room and says « boa noite » with a nice smile sur mon lit. She comes back and asks me if I want to join her outside. She wants to smoke a cigarette. I go with her down the building. Bruna tells me that she’s not an easy person to make friendships but I wonder why. We talk without break about the interior of Pernambuco and her town Caruaru, where the atmosphere is more familiar .
We listen to Marília Mendonça.
She talks about Maria Bethâna that I already know.
And we talk her passion for Forró
With the tunes of Avioes do Forró
She shows me the Maracatu and traditionial costumes from caboclos de lança.
And on my turn the traditional bigouden costumes (she finds them very strange), fest-noz and celtic music.
It’s already late in the night and time to go to bed